Saturday, March 17 9:55 a.m. I bought a book to take home with me. It’s a kind of tourism book for Guinea with lots of pictures but also a bit of history and some practical information. It was originally written in French and then translated into English. I hope the French original is better because…
Friday, March 16 8:22 a.m. Yesterday I went to one of the little fly infested shacks on the market road for something to eat. The experience was a little picture of life in Guinea, perhaps a tiny but appropriate goodbye. I walk in. The woman who finally notices me does not smile, does not welcome…
Tuesday, March 13 7:42 a.m. Conakry I was supposed to meet the Sierra Leonians at the Nelson Mandela Hotel at 6:30 for an early start. Amadou, the driver, clearly felt his reputation as a driver (which was quite good) depended largely on getting from A to B in the shortest time possible. He saw himself…
Sunday, March 11 8:30 a.m. Kissidougou I’m tired this morning not having slept well last night. My dreams were filled with barrages and angry little men waving guns and shouting. Not surprising considering the day I had. My guardian angel the Good Conde let me down. I was at the gendarmerie post with my bicycle…
Friday, March 9 8:13 a.m. My initial favorable impressions of Macenta have not faded. Unlike Nzerekore it has a discernible center, a downtown where my hotel is conveniently located. It is ringed closely by jungle covered hills. To the northeast two chains of hills run parallel to each other on both sides of the town.…
Thursday, March 8 – 8:35 a.m. Macenta I listened to the BBC the night before I left Nzerekore to come here to Macenta. I hadn’t heard anything about Guinea and border fighting for a while and going on the assumption that no news is good news didn’t want to hear anything now. But the top…
Monday, March 5 8:39 a.m. Nzerekore When I left from Beyla I had no intention of getting to Nzerekore in one day. I’d gotten distance estimates ranging from one hundred and thirty-five kilometres to one hundred and eighty kilometres and with no idea of the road conditions even the low end of those estimates was…
Saturday, March 3 7:10 a.m. For the second morning in a row I’ve woken to the cheerful and welcoming sound of church bells. The sky seems a bit overcast meaning that this probably would have been a good day for cycling but I’m going to spend today and possibly even tomorrow in Beyla. I’m enjoying…
Friday, March 2 7:22 a.m. My hands aren’t much better this morning. Even simple tasks like shaving and opening a zipper are difficult. Pushing the play button on my walkman was almost too much for me and I had to use two hands. This is unusual and I suspect that it has something to do…
Thursday, March 1 3:00 p.m. Beyla I look at my map of Guinea and can see where I am but I can hardly believe it. There seems altogether too much space between Kankan and Beyla. I couldn’t possibly have cycled that. But cycle it I did. I’ve got the war wounds to prove it. My…
Monday, February, 26 2:30 p.m. I appear to be momentarily trapped in Kankan by a “manifestation.” The plan was to go to the bank this morning, change money, and then head for the Forest Region tomorrow morning. But when I found the bank it was locked up tight. My first thought was that with my…
Sunday, February 25 10:10 a.m. Kankan has turned me into an observer. Which I suppose isn’t a bad thing. Most of yesterday I sat on the balcony watching the world go by. This was after a second and longer bike ride around the city. I found the Milo River and the “gare voiture” on its…
Friday, February 23 3:10 p.m. Kankan I have a room at Bate’s Hotel in Kankan. First impressions matched the name and I immediately dubbed the fellow who showed me the pitch black rooms “Norman.” I knew I’d end up taking the room (the options in Kankan aren’t exactly overwhelming in number it was either rooming…
Thursday, February 22 1:30 p.m. Kouroussa is proving to be by far the most atmospheric and pleasant town I’ve encountered in Guinea. I set off on my bicycle early this morning when it was still cool for an exploratory ride. The sky stayed overcast almost the entire time which made it even more enjoyable. I…
Wednesday, February 21 2:00 p.m. Kouroussa If I was yearning for the hot plains I got my wish and then some. At first though I didn’t think it was going to happen. I left Dabola so loaded down with water I felt like a camel. But then I felt silly because the land was heavily…
Tirugondar 